Tuesday 25 April 2023

Lake2Cape - South Africa

Finally seeing Table Mountain!

In South Africa, our main target was the Cape Gannet colony in Lamberts Bay which is easily reachable from the border provided you arrive early. Lamberts Bay is a lazy fishing village but needs to deal with the notorious Western Cape weather and we arrived on a bad day - gloomy and rain! 

Lamberts Bay harbor, the weather plays in important role on the west coast. 

The forecast for the week wasn't good so there was no choice of waiting for the sunny day. As with everything, we got in early morning despite the mist and gloom and were warned that the park could close in the afternoon and the next couple days as accessing the colony along the sea wall becomes an issue with big waves. 

The only Cape Gannet colony accessible by land. 

Despite the inhospitable conditions, we got a look in at these amazing birds. They are large sea birds with a huge wingspan and duck feet. There are 6 colonies in Southern Africa but all are on Islands except the Lamberts Bay colony and we were happy and lucky to get a look in as by the time we broke for morning coffee, the rain was in making shooting almost impossible. 


Make sure you get the timing right to visit the colony. 

Next stop down the Western Cape was the iconic Cape Town to catch both attractions and family. Driving in to Cape Town along with multi-lane highways was an interesting experience after years of negotiating single lane East African roads. 

Table mountain peeked out of the clouds to welcome us. 

Rather fittingly we arrived to mist and gloom and checked in to a flat on the 3rd floor of an apartment building, again rather a strange experience after years of camping on holidays. Table Mountain rather obligingly did peek out of the clouds to give us a flavor but was soon overtaken by the clouds. 


Another day in the office for the locals, we were freezing. 

The next day was in contrast a the total opposite with bright sunshine and open skies. Despite being on the continent since 2003, Dru had not been to Cape Town expect to catch flights and work related visits which don't allow one to explore the town. 

Back in the civilized world after nearly two months on the road. 

So this sunny winters day was a perfect first day to explore this historical town. The Waterfront is a must visit while in Cape Town as is Table Mountain and both only make sense in good weather and we were grateful to the weather gods for a beautiful day. It's hard to imagine how Dru's parents and brother made it up to Table Mountain before him, but finally Table Mountain was done and it was time to head further south along the Cape. 

Cape Town waterfront with the Mountain.

Next stop was Boulders Beach to checkout the Penguin Colony. The drive from Cape Town down the coast must be one of the best and we stopped off at Hout Bay for lunch before passing Chapmans Peak and a string of beautiful beaches before arriving at Boulders Beach in Simons Town to catch the Penguins. 

View from the top, Lions head and the harbor. 

On this coast, it is important to make the most of clear skies as things can change and dramatically so make hay while the sun lasts. 

Hout Bay, one of many pictures stops along the coastal drive. 

As the sun was shining as we arrived, despite it being late, we headed straight for the Penguin colony which was a good thing as the weather gods weren't as kind the next morning. The penguins were a hit as there really is nothing like it and at Boulders, you can get up close to these strange chaps. 

The Jackass penguin colony at Boulders Bay, Simons Town. 



The next day we were heading further South, this time to Betty's Bay with the hope of catching some Cape endemics, especially the Cape rock jumper and the Ground woodpecker, both of who had been spotted at Betty's Bay. The weather dictates activities in this part of the world and today was not a good day. 

Simons Bay, another gem on the coastal drive. 

We couldn't get out of the car at our lunch venue at Betty's and drove to the next town for lunch before coming back to camp at Betty's to target the Botanical Gardens the following morning. Thankfully the next morning was beautiful and we knocked off 7 lifers in the botanical gardens but never found the Rock Jumper or Ground Woodpecker and we left with threats to return to find both soon. 

Penguins coming ashore at Boulders Beach. 

We were now within striking distance from Cheryl's parents in George and the next day was leisurely drive to George where we would spend quality time with family while getting the car fixed and attending to a list of administrative matters. 

The bays keep coming up, Fish Hoek. 

What was supposed to be a trip for retirement was suddenly hatched and undertaken within a month. What was supposed to be done in a custom built overland 4x4 was done in a standard Hilux Bakkie. 

Muizenberg bay, packed with surfers on a freezing morning. 

There were no fancy touring fittings, awnings or electronics, we could not even source proper off road tyres in Malawi but a trip of a lifetime was done with no bookings, planning or research. 

White sands and clean beaches but freezing water for the rest of us.  

Long live the life of overlanding and we hope there will be another opportunity to do a similar trip, perhaps one in reverse to East Africa!

Victoria Bay pier, George. 

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