Once you understand where the game is located and information of recent sightings, the next task is to get to these areas and look for tracks and signs confirming recent activity. If this can be confirmed then the best chance would be to focus in this area. Having said that animals are creatures of habit, the reality is they wonder as they please and there are no guarantees of sightings even though there were recent sightings and/or tracks and signs, but it’s still a good starting point.
While in the
park always ask questions from others on what they have seen and make mental
notes of what is where. At night, listen to the sounds and make mental notes as
most predators are active and can be heard in the nights. When driving around,
keep an eye on the track and immediate surrounds for animal activity. All this
knowledge is important to make informed decisions on tracking game as opposed
to wild stabs in the dark hoping something jumps in front of you! Yes that
works too but its’ a lot more rewarding if you applied some method and located
game.
One of the most important clues for finding the game is from other animals. Prey animals will almost certainly react with both posture and alarm calls to the presence of predators, remember its a life or death matter for them and they will behave accordingly. Monkeys and Baboons on tree tops are often the first to notice a predator and will let you an alarm call to warn others. Plains game such as Impala, Zebra and Kudu will let you alarm call for predators and its worth knowing what these calls sounds like so you can react when you hear them. Guinea fowl for example will fly in to the middle of the bush if the danger is a bird of prey but will mob a predator on the ground, all important clues in tracking game.
Lion
The king of the bush, this male Kalahari lion in Khutse GR in Botswana was a prize sighting. |
Molose water hole in the Khutse GR in Botswana was a favorite hang out for us and these two brothers, Blondy and Sandy who ruled this part of the Kalahari and the only water source for miles. |
The good
thing about lions is they are the kings of the bush and act it! This means they
will walk on the roads leaving important tracks for us to pick up on. The other
give away with lions is that they roar, mainly at night. It’s important to pick
up these roars at night so you have some idea of how the lions are moving. If
you get out first thing in the morning you give yourself the best chance of
catching the tracks and get clues of night time activity and to the location of
the lions. We have often followed the direction of lions roars from the night
before or early morning tracks and been rewarded with a sighting.
Lions being
creatures of the night and visitors not being allowed to drive in the dark (in national parks),
makes seeing lions in action a real challenge. Leaving early (as
possible) is a key to locating lions while they are still active, before the
sun comes up. If you have gathered the bush intelligence on where the lions are
and leave early (really early) you increase your chances of seeing lions that
are still active. Once the sun comes up and the lions gather under a tree, the
best you are going to see is a sleeping lion which really is not much fun.
Sleeping lions are not much fun! |
When you see
lions it’s useful to gather further intelligence such as are there mating
lions, are there suckling cubs, is there a kill nearby, have they eaten
recently , all of which indicates the lions are unlikely to move. If the sighting is at a random spot its’
worth noting where the nearest water source is, which way are the lions
heading, where are the prey animals in relation to the lions, all of which
could indicate where the lions are headed next and a possible second and better
sighting.
Mating lions will seldom leave the immediate area. |
Lions are
pretty relaxed around cars and will seldom run off in the bush to get away from
vehicles in major national parks. If there are hunting concessions and human
activity around they can get skittish. Having said this, always give them space so
they are able to relax and not focus on the vehicle. A relaxed pride of lions
will give you the best opportunity to get your shots of lion interaction. If
you get too close the cubs especially, are bound to freeze and focus on the
vehicle.
Serengeti lions are very relaxed around vehicles and are known to use the shade of vehicles to rest. |
Best lion
sightings: Seronera, Serengeti NP, Tanzania.
Leopard
A rare sighting of a leopard in the clear in good light. |
Easily the most elusive and prized sighting in the bush and almost impossible to track. Even if you are able to get information on recent sightings and hang outs, leopards are hard to find. Leopards being elusive and stealthy, makes these cats really hard to locate and when located, often hard to get clear shots. The best way to find a leopard is to find a kill up in a tree, to which the leopard is almost certain to return but again good luck as this is a rare sighting.
Unmistakable evidence of a leopard kill but this leapord never gave us a sighting. |
Being a night creature, once again your best chances are first thing in the morning, before sun up. If you miss them at sun up your next best shot is up a tree during the day. If you don’t look hard enough you will miss a leopard in a tree as they can disappear in to a tree with amazing ease. Unlike Lions, Leopards usually are not blatantly obvious to spot and often at a sighting, we wonder how many Leopards we may have driven past without noticing them. We have known an instant where several game drive vehicles failed to notice a leopard in a tree despite being parked right next to it and watching a waterhole. We have also pointed out a leopard in a tree to game drive vehicles who have failed to see it!
Leopard in a tree is difficult to spot unless you have a keen eye. |
Leopards
hardly call and in all our travels we have only ever heard a leopard once and
yes, it was in the dark. Its’ an unmistakable ‘wood sawing’ sound which is hard
to explain but obvious when you hear it.
The Serengeti leopards are relaxed around vehicles, this leopard walked between several vehicles before sitting next to ours'. |
Elephant
Elephant interactions are great to watch. |
The easiest
animal to find provided there are elephants around! Usually they wonder far and
wide but need to drink daily and thus a water source is a good option to catch
elephant sightings. Elephants will drink at the least obvious place but they
usually prefer easy landings with a gentle slope to the water, especially a
herd with babies. It’s easy to note where the elephants regularly drink as they
are destructive and leave plenty of signs of their presence and it’s fair to
assume if the elephants are around they will drink daily.
Elephants will drink daily, knowing the drinking spots as this on the Chobe river in Botswana offers great viewing. |
From our
experience elephants are least active in the mornings and only start to appear
in the late mornings. The height of elephant drinking is during the hottest
part of the day and by evening, they are often away from water. So the best
times to catch elephants drinking is when the predators are least active during
the heat of the day, which is great as it keeps the day busy.
If your in Chobe Botswana, get on the river in the evenings for best elephant views. |
Away from
the water elephants require a variety of diet and thus will be spotted in all
vegetation types. In thick bush, elephants have an amazing way of disappearing
just meters from you. Also in thick bush it’s hard to gauge the mood of the
elephant or get good shots as the mixture of shadows and the dark shapes makes
it hard to get a good exposure. The best
place to observe elephants is in the open savannah.
Mating elephants are rare as this scene on the Serengeti plains. |
Elephant
watching is largely determined by the mood of elephants in the area you are in.
Elephants behave very differently in different places. For example in a
protected area with no hunting concessions around, elephants are awfully calm
allowing for close up interaction with little or no reaction to vehicles. In
areas close to hunting concessions or local villages, elephants appear to be tense
around vehicles and are skittish on sight. It’s important to be aware of this
as you cannot treat all sightings the same.
You need to hold your nerve in close elephant encounters. |
In general,
if you come across a herd crossing the road it’s best to wait for the herd to
cross. Never end up between a baby and a mother and this is often said to be
the most dangerous elephant encounter and best avoided.
Never get between a mother and baby. |
Also be aware of bulls
in musth and stay well clear of them as they are temperamental and
unpredictable at this time. By far the most nerve-wracking elephant encounter will
be to encounter a big lone bull on the road heading in your direction with no
apparent plan on the elephants’ part to move off the road. If the bull doesn’t
immediately move off the road rest assured you are in for a battle, one you
would rather not be in! The basic theory is who is boss in this situation and
you're well advised to get off the road giving way to the big bull. This way you
don’t confront the bull, which is possibly enough to ease the situation but can
also result in a stalemate where both parties are stuck in their respective
‘space’. It’s also important to gauge the mood of the elephant which will at
most time force the best course of action. If it’s calm and relaxed, left alone
and given the space, the elephant will most likely go about its business
without much of a fuss. If it’s irritated and looking aggressive get out of
there without waiting to find out what may or may not happen!
Lone bull on the road heading your way is an encounter to test your nerves. |
What to do
when an elephant charges is another nerve wracking decision that needs to be
made and usually, very quickly. The general advice is to decide if it’s a mock
charge or the real thing and again from what we gather, if the elephant has its
ears out and making a lot of noise, this is best ignored. If the ears are
pinned back and the trunk is out of the way – this is the real deal and get
away and fast!
You wana hope this big boy keeps going and gets off the track! |
Best
Elephant sighting: Watercart, Chobe national park, Botswana.
Buffalo
Buffalo drink daily |
This old male got himself some bush effects. |
Best buffalo
sightings: Mikumi national park, Tanzania.
Rhino
It is said Rhino's are forgetfull |
Unfortunately due to relentless poaching, Rhino sightings are rare and in a lot of parks, extinct. Rhino are not the most exciting of creatures to observe but their prehistoric appearance makes up for their lack of other behavioral characteristics. Rhino also need to be given their space as can be temperamental and unpredictable but the most likely scenario is the Rhino will run away.
Malemas' pan at Khama Rhino sanctuary is a well kept secret for good Rhino sightings. |
Best Rhino
sightings: Malemas pan, Khama Rhino Sanctuary, Botswana.
Cheetah
Cheetahs' hunt during the day offering great shooting opportunites of a big cat on kill. |
One of the
great things about chasing Cheetah is that they are active and hunt during the
day and often hang out in open plains in the sun making them easy to spot,
provided you are not day dreaming as they blend in well! What we have also noticed about Cheetahs is
that they are surprisingly bold around vehicles and are known to use vehicles
for shade and even using vehicles as cover to set up an ambush. Cheetah tracks
are easy to identify as they have the cat like pug but with claws which the
lion and leopard don’t. One can get mixed up between Hyena and Cheetah tracks
but the Hyena’s ‘pug’ besides being compact, often will show the back pug being
much smaller.
Nxai pan in Botswana offers typical Cheetah country |
Best Cheetah
sightings: Seronera, Serengeti, Tanzania.
Wild dog
Wild dogs act like a mans best friend - very relaxed on the road and around vehicles. |
Molose in the Kalahari offered us great wild dog sightings |
There are
very few places where one can track wild dog and the first question should be
on the presence of a den where you are almost guaranteed of sightings. If there
is no den then you are back to a chance sighting. Given dogs are day time
hunters, they rest during the hottest part of the day and if you can catch them at this time you
have a good chance of having some quality time with the dogs.
Catching the pack on the move is a great thrill will dogs. |
Getting a clear shot of a Serval is a prize sighting. |
A sighting of either of these two elusive
small cats is likely to be a chance encounter. It’s almost impossible to track
them as they disappear into even short grass very quickly. If you see it take
a shot immediately as its unlikely you will get another opportunity. I would
imagine finding a den for either is the best chance but this sort of
information is usually not readily available or known to even locals. The few
sightings we have had of these two smaller cats have been chance encounters.
Caracal is the rarer sighting of the smaller cats. |
Hyena
Brown Hyena is hard to find other than the Kalahari. |
Hyena clans are great to watch and finding a den is your best chance. |
Almost all
campsites we have been to have a resident Hyena who appears at night and will
keep lurking around the campsite at night. Don’t be tempted to feed the Hyena’s
as this is only going to compound the problem which will eventually lead to the
animal being shot for being a nuisance.
Hyenas are very bold around cars, this chap went back to sleep in the middle of the road. |
Other game
Spectacular Gemsbok is a common Kalahari sighting. |
There is not
much one can say about other plains game such as zebra, giraffe, impala, buck etc. Most parks will have a healthy population of plains game and will have
favorite hangouts and will tend to stick to their favorite hangouts over
periods of time. Our usual aim is to get a decent shot of available plains game
but we do tend to neglect these animals for the big ticket animals.
The spectacular Sable, Chobe NP has resident herds but otherwise rare. |
There are
plains game which one may consider a special sighting such as Sable, Roan or
Oryx and it's important to be aware these possible sightings when visiting a
park. These animals they also tend to hang around in certain favourite areas
which are your best chance of seeing them.
Greater Kudu is a common in Southern Africa but rare in East Africa. |
One of nature’s greatest spectacles is the migration of
animals in large numbers, usually in search of greener pastures and water. Thanks
to humans, most of the great migrations such as the great Prairie Bison
migration are no more. Others like the Zebra and Wildebeest migrations in the
Mgadigadi salt pans in Botswana cling on by a thread in fractions of its former
numbers, thanks to buffalo fences to protect cattle of the world’s largest
diamond producer!
Thankfully Africa is still home to some of the greatest migrations on earth, with the Serengeti Wildebeest migration in Tanzania and the Kob migration in Sudan. All migrations are however at the mercy of humans and the Serengeti migration is under threat due to a proposed public road through the national park.
Don’t live in the belief you can rock up at the Serengeti
and view the migration unless you’re in the hands of a professional. You need
to know the basics of the migration, available camping facilities and terrain.
For example the Serengeti migration stretches from Southern Kenya to Southern
Tanzania, an area bigger over 30,000 square KM's, where all the roads are gravel and in
the rainy season (when the migration occurs), the roads can be a real
challenge. Public camping is only available in limited places so planning and knowledge
will play a key part but above everything else luck will determine your success!
The migration was supposed to in the east but the lack of rain meant they were standing on the side of the raod in the central Serengeti - it was plain luck. |
Unless you are in the
company of a professional, you need knowledge and a lot of luck to catch the
migration in its all its glory. The key thing to know about migrations is to
know what drives it, usually rain, and the timing of the migration. The next is
to get an understanding of the historical migration paths and patterns but be
aware, historical routes are no longer necessarily reliable due to change in
rain patterns and the impact of humans through farming etc but its valuable
information to have. The most critical information is current up to date
information on animal movement and rainfall, which is like gold dust unless you
work in the industry.
For example the 2013 Serengeti migration was supposed to run
down the Eastern Side of the Serengeti to the annual calving grounds in the Ngorongoro
Conservation Area (NCA). Due to the failure of the rains, most of the herds
headed back to the Mara River before running through the Central Serengeti to
reach the calving grounds. If you had made plans for the Eastern Serengeti you
would be bitterly disappointed. Unfortunately getting this information is not
the easiest, and even if you have all the information, you need luck on your
side to catch the migration in an accessible area.
Migration info is critical to get to the right spot |
Ironically the failure or lower rainfall offers the most
spectacular and assured viewing of migrations as animals are forced to stay
close to water and gather in huge numbers around limited water sources. In time
of abundant water, the animals disperse and spread across a wide area and break
in to family groups which, dilutes the spectacle.
Crossing points or bottle necks also offer spectacular
sightings and it’s important to identify these points and the movement of
animals towards it. Usually they will gather is large numbers before crossing,
offering spectacular viewing and photographic opportunities while predators are
most likely to hang around these areas.
Mara Crossing - Kugatenda Serengeti |
Serengeti Migration
There are two public camp sites to catch the migration in
the Serengeti. Seronera, in the central Serengeti and Lobo, in the North
Eastern Serengeti. Lobo will only be of use just as the rainy season starts (Oct/Nov)
in the Serengeti and the herds moved down from Kenya. Lobo is also hilly which
means you may not see the full spectacle of the migration in ‘one frame’. One could use Lobo to access the Mara River during the season but it's a long drive Lobo to the Mara River and time at prime locations will be limited before having to head back to camp.
Seronera is ideally located to explore the Migration when it
runs on the Eastern side (Nov/Dec) on its way to the calving grounds and the
Western side on its way back (Mar/Apr) to the Mara in Kenya. The calving
grounds are located at Ndutu in the NCA but there is no public camping in the
Ndutu area. Also to cross from the Serengeti to Ndutu, you need to pay fees and
do paper work – yep nothing like messing up a good thing! So it you are based
in Seronera your best bet is to target the Eastern or Western flanks and from
what we have seen, the Eastern side offers spectacular plains to catch the
migration, while the Western side is wooded (not sure haven’t seen much of it).
To explore the Ndutu calving grounds you need to either
include it as part of when you leave the Serengeti through the NCA heading to
Arusha or coming in the same way. Either way exploring Ndutu for self drivers
is tricky unless you manage to book yourself in to one of the lodges at Ndutu
(warning – they fill up months in advance for the migration). Also note you can drive off road in Ndutu so
get your bearings right as the land is flat and featureless.Calving grounds, the mineral rich plains of Ndutu. |
The Mara
River Crossing
The Mara
River crossing in the Serengeti in my opinion is the greatest animal spectacle
on earth. There are other river crossings the Wildebeest make during the annual
migration, however, the Mara River crossing is the biggest and the most spectacular.
The challenge with the Mara River Crossing in the Serengeti (as opposed to the
Maasai Mara in Kenya), is its remoteness and inaccessibility to self drive
campers and limited lodge accommodation. This in turn means there is a
possibility of witnessing the greatest wildlife event on earth on your own!
We caught this whole crossing on our own in the Serengeti! |
The
prime location to access the Mara River in the Serengeti is Kogatende next to
the Lemai wedge. It’s about half day
drive from Lobo if you know where you are going. Don’t mess around in this area
alone unless you have a GPS or are confident of bearings as there are few
vehicles if you get lost or need assistance and it’s a huge remote area to get
lost in quickly. The river here is wide with several choice crossing points
with the best crossing point near to the Asilia Olakira camp. The evening
crossing’s offer perfect sun when the animals are crossing in to the Serengeti
side from Lemai.
Kogatenda crossing point near Asilia Olakira camp is perfect. |
When in the area
you have to do some work to end up catching the actual crossing. You need to
watch the herds gathering which will happen for hours before the actual
crossing. The animals will often gather along the river and then run up and
down the river before actually plunging in. If you don’t pay attention, you may
not actually catch the crossing despite being in the area. We were told of
people who were in the area for 5 days an only caught one crossing on the last
day. We were awfully lucky as we caught the first of our 3 crossings in two
days within hours of arriving at Kogatenda. Luck it seems is the biggest
factor as it is often with wildlife.
The animals will gather and run up and down the bank before crossing. |
Once the
animals have calmed down and appear to have chosen the crossing point it’s
critically important to stay quiet and out of sight well away from the river so
as to not spook the animals. When the crossing starts, it’s important to let
the lead animals reach the opposite bank before starting your vehicle and
approaching the river bank. Once the lead animals reach the opposite bank, the
whole herd will cross the river and is without doubt the most amazing wildlife
spectacle.
Mara River crossing Serengeti - you need to do some work to catch this. |
Makgadikgadi Migration
Unfortunately there is little left of what was one the
second biggest migration in Africa after the Serengeti, the Zebra and
Wildebeest of the Makgadikgadi pans system. The story goes that when the buffalo
fences were first erected, the wildebeest (dead) stacked up almost to the top of
the fence in the desperate attempt to cross. It is also said Botswana lost over
80% of its wildebeest and Zebra population due to the buffalo fences.
Fortunately the authorities were kind enough to leave a gap between
fences through which the remaining animals make the run to the pans. Animals running south are funneled through
the Nxai Pan /Mgadigadi Pan national parks, which is the only place to catch
this migration. Once they cross into the pans the roads are too messy to
follow in the wet.
The open plains of Nxai pan |
Usually the rains
arrive in late October and the animals will arrive and leave with the rains. We
found April was a great time as the water levels recede to a manageable level
and the animals were still around. We fled Nxai pan one December in fear of
being marooned in black cotton soil after overnight rain and there was another
occasion where Nxai pan was inaccessible in December due to rain, so get local
knowledge before heading in. The road in to the park is not the problem but all
the roads surrounding the pan are black cotton and don’t mess around on it
unless you know what you are doing.
Both parks have public camp sites and the last time we were
there (2010), bookings had to be made in Maun or Gaborone. Nxai pan has a shady
camp ground which has up to 10 sites while the Mgadigadi camp ground by the
river had about 5 sites. There is also a campsite at Njuca hills, which is
closest to the pans and overlooks the surrounding grass plains and has 3
camping sites.
With only one road round the pan, its important to make the most of animals close to the road. |
Birding
Superb Starling - a spectacular but relatively common sighting in its habitat. |
The spectacular Red and Yellow barbet |
Ant eathing chat? - which one? |
Water holes are a great spot to bird, a resident Saddle bill stork is perfect company. |
Being the samllers of the scavengers, the Hooded Vulture hangs back at kills. |
Like mammals, birds embark on migrations but these are over mind-blowing distances accross continents, the longest being the Arctic Tern who moves between the two arctic circles. All areas experience some local and migrant bird movements with the change of the seasons. The arrival of the summer season and the annual rains marks the change of the seasons and the arrival of the migrants. The arrival of the migrants is a much anticiapted time of the year for birders, when the European migrant birds arrive in the warmer Southern hemisphere.
White stock are iconic migrants who arrive in Africa from Europe. |
Zanzibar red bishop is a dull brown job that takes on a jewel like plumage in summer. |
No comments:
Post a Comment