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| The Pans are surrounded by tarmac roads with easy access but venture in with caution. |
Read about our trips to the Makgadikgadi pans here
Overview
Once a thriving lake in ancient times, there is even a theory that an ancient super river consisting of Zambezi and others flowed through Botswana and emptied in to the Indian Ocean. That was till earth crust moved forming the Zimbabwean highlands shifting the Zambezi to it's current location and giving way to an ancient super lake which eventually dried up to form one of the largest salt pans in the world, the Makgadikgadi pans.
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| Kubu Island is a small rocky outcrop on the edge of Sowa pan. |
'The pans' as it is know in this part of the world, consist of several different eco-systems split and dominated by several salt pans which transforms with the seasons. There are no flowing rivers in the pans but only seasonal river systems, most of which do not flow for years on end.
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| The big open skies of Nxai Pan. |
There are two notable rivers on either side of the pans, the Boteti on the Western side which gets its water from the Okvango river overflow which is thought to reach as far as Mopipi on the edge of the pans. On the Eastern side is the Nata river which we think also empties on to Sowa pan and there are many a year that neither flow or only flow a couple of days following heavy rainfall.
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| The Boteti River at Makgadikgadi NP has pumped waterholes for the game. |
'The Pans' is also the home to the one of the wildlife migrations of the world, the annual Zebra migration when the animals run south from the Chobe River system seeking new pastures in the 'the pans'. Unfortunately this is also the time the clay mud of the pans come to life making is virtually impossible to navigate in to the pans, however, the migration can be experienced from around the pans as different locations.
While the pans themselves are inhospitable, there are hot spots dotted around the pans to explore the different attractions. The gateway to the Eastern side of the pans is the sleep town of Nata located on the main trans-African highway connecting South Africa to the rest of Africa. Under the right conditions, Sowa pans can become a breeding ground for Flamingos. The Nata Bird sanctuary offers good birding in the rainy season with other water birds such as Pelicans breeding over summer. The mud flats of Nata provide perfect breeding conditions for migrating waders too.
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| Lessor Bush Babies make a living on the edge of the pans. |
One hour out of Nata on the Maun road is another sleepy and non-descript town of Gweta. Blink and you will miss it but it's a must stop to explore the Pans proper and there is also an access road to the iconic Kubu Island. Using Gweta as a base, one is able to explore the pans in off road vehicles including overnighting on the pans under the stars and Meerkat excursions.
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| Meerkat colonies are a prize sighting around the pans. |
Kubu Island is small outcrops of rocks forming an island between Sowa and Ntwetwe pans offering spectacular views across the dry salt lake. This is about solitude, open skies, sunsets and sunrises as opposed to wildlife. Get your bearings and seasons right before venturing in to the pans, especially if your planning on crossing the pans in either direction, this is not the place to get lost or get stuck! The safest and easiest approach to Kubu Island is from the southern entrance of Orapa, home to one of the most lucrative diamond mines in the world.
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| The Baobabs of Kubu Island. |
On the Western edge of the pan is the Makgadikgadi National Park which features the Boteti river which has flowed for a few years in the last 25 years requiring a pontoon to get across to the game from its Southern entrance of Khumaga. These days, the main game driving circuit is in the dry river bed highlighting the changing seasons of this fragile eco-system. The Boteti river has both permanent waterholes which can collect seasonal water over winter and pumped waterholes providing game with critical water to survive the winter without having to migrate out of the area.
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| Zebra can now reside at Boteti thanks to the pumped water holes. |
Nxai Pan National park is part of Makgadikgadi National park separated by the main tarmac road that runs Maun to Nata. In terms of wildlife, Nxai Pan is the probably the best option with permanent pumped waterhole and a grass pan attracting all the big game in this area including Lion. Leopard, Cheetah, Wild dog, Hyena, Elephant and Buffalo.
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| Nxai Pan is big game country. |
Within the Nxai pan NP is Baines Baobab which is a feature of the area mainly due to its remote location and historical significance. On an historical expedition party from the 1800s, of the early explorers, the resident artist Thomas Baines is said to have painted these Baobab which stands to this date. The camp site here is very basic and the location is totally isolated. Don't expect to see much game out here and you would be awfully unlucky to not have this place to you own.
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| Baines Baobab, solitude and isolated corner of the Pans. |
When did we go
Getting there
Unless you are exploring the middle of the pans such as Kubu Island or Tree Island, the pans are accessible easily from around the different entry points of Nata, Gweta, Khumaga and Orapa. You would need to venture in to the pans from these bases which is best to left to experts who know their way around here but getting to those bases is rather straight forward.
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| In to The Pans. |
Roads in the park
Seasons determine the roads conditions, particularly rain fall and the impact on the black cotton soil which is the base on all the pans. Driving on black cotton is total disaster and not to be messed around with.
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| The road to Nxai Pan is a wild ride. |
There is also a lot thick sand away from the clay based pans to get your attention, particularly on the Boteti River and approach to Nxai pan. The sand is manageable and only challenge one in the middle of winter when the dry sand can form traps. Best to lower tyre pressure and engage 4x4 to ensure you don't dig up the track which may trap someone behind you.
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| There are roads and roads in the pans, this across the pans. |
We stay well clear of these areas in the wet season being solo travelers, getting out of mud traps alone can be a major challenge. The salt pans clay can be deceptive under foot in that while looking hard and solid on top can sink quickly to expose wet mud just a few inches below. Only use well used tracks and make sure you are aware of recent rain activity.
Accommodation
Given the base town are located on main tarmac towns there are a variety of accommodation options including up market lodges and budget accommodation options in Nata, Gweta and Khumaga along the Boteti river. There are also lodge options on private concessions around the pans including in the middle of the pans which offer all things expensive lodges offer which is not our deal so cannot say much about them.
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| Out here, plan to camp widl! |
Camping facilities
All of the base towns have camping options based out of lodges which have decent facilities including access to restaurant and excursions.
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| Campsite #6 is the only site in Kubu with a view of the pan. |
Camping options inside the national park are located inside the Makgadikgadi National park at Khumaga (https://sklcamps.com/) and Nxai Pan (https://www.xomaesites.com/) and follow the basic Botswana model of unfenced camps which means game can wander in to the camp and elephants regularly hang out for shade in both campsites.
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| This guy drank from our bucket of water in the Nxai campsite. |
Each campsite also has it's own firepit but no water and thankfully so as the elephants in these drier parts will most certainly dig up pipes and become a menace in the camp. Both campsites have two ablution blocks with running water. Both gates will sell you firewood with the Nxai pan gate also having a small shop that will sell you basic camp stuff and a few dry food items.
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| Nxai pan campsite always seems to have Elephants around the campsite. |
Besides the above two serviced campsites, there are three basic campsites at Baines Baobab, Njuca Hills and Tree Island which needs to be booked through the department of wildlife. All are remote and isolated with long drops only and you need to carry everything including firewood as there is nothing out there.
Viewing wildlife
The big game viewing is in the National park and based on the Boteti river or Nxai pan. Both have big game, huge herds and all predators. Due to the lack of flowing or standing water in the area, wildlife viewing is based around the few permanent pumped waterholes.
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| Lions watch the herd of Buffalo come for a drink at Nxai. |
The Makgadikgadi area is based on the Boteti river with animals coming to access the waterholes in the river bed. Predators are shy and stay away due to the human animal conflict with villages that straddle the opposite bank for the river. Although there is a game fence to separate the wild game from the villages, conflicts are inevitable which has resulted in predators being shy or scarce in this area.
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| Breeding hersds are now resident at Nxai. |
Nxai pan on the contrary is a safe zone for animals it shows in their behavior as they access the water holes in total confidence. This was traditionally home for the big old bull elephants but in recent times we are seeing breeding herds and even breeding herds of buffalo. Nxai pan in the past was the home for Cheetah with resident families on the pan but on our return in 2023 no one had seen a Cheeta in Nxai pan for over a year and still haven't up to 2026 which is strange and disappointing.
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| Surprised to see Wild Dogs in the Pans, here at Nxai. |
The biggest attraction in this area is the annual Zebra migration which starts with the arrival of the rains in December with fresh growth on the pans which we assume is nutritious driven like most migrations. Due to the buffalo fences erected to safe guard the Botswana meat market, which is an important cultural and economic asset for the nation, wildlife is funneled through the Nxai pan corridor into The Pans. Once they get into The Pans, it can be difficult to track or reach the herds but during this time, there are thousands of animals running around this area.
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| So photogenic, Zebs are the waterhole, these are the guys that stayed. |
Wilderness factor
Except for Nxai pan, the rest of the places border with villages diminishing the wilderness factor somewhat. Excursions in to The Pans are truly wild with low traffic and waste spaces of wilderness. In the middle of the pans, the sheer nothingness is indescribable but not necessarily wilderness but still amazingly different.
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| Sunrise at Kubu Island. |
The Boteti river has lodges and a village on the opposite bank taking away some of the wilderness factor but the opposite direction in to The Pans and towards Njuca hills and heading in to the pans is real wilderness.
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| The Pans have some of the largest bulls in Botswana. |
You drive about 30 KMS to reach Nxai pan and it always feel wild due to the relative low numbers and the landscape. The couple of water holes can get a bit crowded but win only 10 campsite and no day visitors is enough to keep the wilderness factor.
Other logistics
Park entry fees can be paid either at Nxai or Makgadikgadi and they include each other meaning it is the same park despite being separated by the main road. Park fees only apply to these two areas meaning if you go check out the Meerkats from Gweta or drive to Kubu Island, there are no park fees.
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| There is nothing out here, no logistics but pure wilderness. |
Kubu Island unfortunately had got a bit over crowded with little or no control as it really is in the middle of no where and there appears to be no booking system in place. Also, people seem to arrive from all directions without the knowledge of the community based authority. We have heard of stories that the older camp spots dotted around the island have been since moved to a camp ground like set around the office which would be a disaster if true.
Our impression
'The Pans' are pure magic and unique to Africa and a must do. There are still elements of The Pans we are yet to check out so there is no end to how much to explore in this area. Also, the different spots around The Pans offer very different experiences from the absolute nothingness of Kubu to the Meerkats of Gweta to the hug bulls of Nxai.
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| Sunsets in The Pans are pure magic. |
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