Kalahari

Read about our trips to the Kalahari here

Khutse GR - March 2007

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - December 2009

Khutse GR - November 2024

Mabuasehube GR - December 2024

Overview

The Kalahari is a massive area of nearly a million square kilometers spread over Botswana, South Africa and Namibia. This is remote and hostile terrain but despite being referred to as a desert, due its annual rain fall being above 100mm, it is characterized by sand dunes, scrubland and iconic pans supporting a diverse ecosystem which includes big game such as Lion and Elephant and some localized residents such as Gemsbok, Ground Squirrel and Brown Hyena.  

Brown Hyena is a Kalahari special but unlike its spotted cousin, it is silent. 

Botswana dominates the Kalahari with both access and coverage with over half of the country dominated by the Kalahari. This also means one can access the Kalahari through a number of access points such at the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), Kutse Game Reserve, Mabuasehube Game Reserve (Mabua) and The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (KTFP) which it shares with South Africa and Namibia. 

Giraffes are common in the Kalahari. 

The Kalahari is unique in a number of ways and most importantly it's not teaming with wildlife so this is not the place for your average tourist chasing the big five and in for a quick wildlife fix. In fact one of the features of the Kalahari is the total silence which is hard to comprehend and difficult for everyone to appreciate. 

Ele's dominate the water spout while others gather at the waterhole. 

There is not flowing water in the Kalahari but seasonal waterholes will collect water over the rains. However, there are pumped waterholes scattered throughout the Kalahari enabling a resident eco-system which would otherwise only migrate in with the rains. The eco system here has also evolved to survive in this unique and harsh environment including humans who have called the Kalahari home for thousands of years. 

Gemsbok only occur in the Kalahari. 

The reason all of the Kalahari is a Game Reserve (as opposed to a National Park), is in recognition of the San Bushman who still call the Kalahari home. Their survival skills are truly remarkable from finding water in the desert to making tools, hunting techniques and use and understanding of plants.

Ground squirrel, another Kalahari special. 

Except for the South African portion of the KTFP and the Northern section of the CKGR, there are little or no facilities in the Kalahari and thus only accessible to the self sufficient campers and you need to carry everything including water, firewood and take your garbage out. There are also very few visitors or authorities or anyone so if you want to venture out make sure your prepared and ready to take on one of the most unique and remote wilderness areas remaining in Africa.  

No one knows why but they arrived around 2010 and are still here. 

When did we go

Getting there

The KTFP is the easiest to access via a tarmac road from both South Africa and Botswana. The approach from Namibia is very remote and on sand and gravel tracks which can change with seasons to get local updates before using this entry. 

Choices in the Kalahari, don't head to the CKGR unless your prepared.

Mabua is the hardest to reach with 3 access roads via Tshabong (120 KM or 5 hours), Hukuntsi (140 KM 5 hours) and Kokotsha (130 KM 4 hours). The Tshabong - Hukuntsi road is an access road while the Kokotsha access road a cut line but all roads are wild tracks with long corrugations and sand traps. Regardless of which you road you use, once you get to Mabua you are in a seriously wild and remote place.

Blue skies and flat dust roads of the Kalahari. 

There is an access road that connects Mabua to the KTFP but it's only through bookings and requires a convoy as it's through some of the wildest and remote parts of Africa with no people. Do not mess around here unless you are well prepared and with folks who know what they are doing as there is no chance of help out here. 

The Kutse cut line.

Kutse is easily accessible from the Southern entrance with a 100KM maintained gravel track and your only challenge will be the corrugations. There is a road that connect Kutse to the CKGR but this is also not to be undertaken without a convoy as there are no facilities or people. There are San Villages and some possibly some mining prospectors but it is still very remote areas and the sand is supposedly the very thick so don't mess around this area unless you are part of a convoy and with folks who know what they are doing out here. 

4X4 and donkey carts all going to the Kalahari. 

The CKGR is also a difficult drive with 3 access roads. The easiest is via the Norther town of Rakops where the Matswere gate is a only 50 KMS but will take you over 2 hours to reach the gate and another two hours to reach the first campsites at Deception Valley. The Western entrance from Ghanzi via Xade is over 250 KMS just to reach New Xade which literally in the middle of the CKGR. The third entrance is the Southern Entrance via Kutse and neither the Ghanzi or Kutse entrance are options unless your in a convoy looking for an expedition. 

Open skies and flat plains of the Kalahari. 

Roads in the park

The KTFP on the South African side is well maintained and probably doable in a saloon car but for the fact you need to carry your camping gear. The remote wilderness camps in the park require 4x4 to access the sand tracks but the main game driving circuit is well maintained gravel tracks with each access. 

Storms gather over a Kalahari pan.

Mabua is sand based tracks that should not be an issue but for a few traps which can get thick in winter but otherwise easily negotiated.

Lions also use the road network to get around. 

Similar to Mabua the Kutse tracks are sand based and should not pose too much trouble except for sand traps what get thick in winter. 

Typical Kalahari corrugated sand track. 

The CKGR is mainly clay based tracks which are fine in winter but turn in to black cotton nightmares in summer with the rains. 

Accommodation

The South African side of the KTFP has 3 large serviced campsites (Mata Mata, Twee Rivieren and Nossob) with hot and cold water showers, pool and a shop which will is well stocked. These are also South Africa style campsites which are well maintained but also very crowded, loud with no privacy at all. There are also 5 wilderness camps in the  KTFP which are limited to a few people and remotely located to give you a different experience. Bookings have to be made months in advance and probably a year ahead for South African school holidays through what is the best booking system in Africa -  https://www.sanparks.org/parks/kgalagadi/accommodation. 

Shift expectation on accommodation in the Kalahari to plain wild. 

The Northern end of the CKGR has private lodges including the a private concessions within the park which offer the top end lodge experience. Not having experienced lodges, we cannot comment on the experience but imagine all would have water holes which would lead to a mini eco system and resident Kalahari Wildlife around the camp. 

Camping facilities

Mabua has 17 wild campsites with the campsites at Mabuasehube and Mpayathuthwa managed by https://www.inter-tourismgroup.com/ while the rest are managed by the Department of Wildlife and National Parks dwnp@gov.bw requiring some patience and cordination if you want to make mutliple bookings across the park. 

Wild camping, Mabua. 

There are wild campsites through the Kaa entrance in the Polenstwa section of the park but your need to exit the main Mabua gate and re-enter through the Hukuntsi side which we haven't attempted yet due to the distance and remoteness. We believe it can also be reached from the Nossob side of the KTFP but cannot confirm this as it's never been on the radar. 

The A frames of Mabua, Mpaya 2, look out of lions in the camp here. 

These wild campsites are unfenced so game will walk in, particularly if there is shade or water, both of which are scarce in the Kalahari. Currently (2026 March) there is water only in Mpaya and Khidding with both Lion and Leopard frequenting the Mpaya campsites for water and shade. There are numerous records of Lions using the A frame as shade for resting in the day and will not move. They also appear to have adopted Mpaya as a campsite of their own so walking to the toilet or water at night is not an option. Don't put yourself in danger leading to an attack as the lions will need to be shot!

KHMOL04 Kalahari shade is gold dust. 

Kutse have over 20 campsites (https://www.bigfoottours.co.bw/) spread over 5 locations with the largest and busiest being at Kutse pan which has 10 campsite. Being the closest to the gate, Kutse campsite is very popular with weekend warriors from the capital Gaborone which can lead it to being crowded and loud particularly in the weekends. The rest of the campsites are based at the various pans located inside the park with two of the pans (Molose and Moreswe) having pumped waterholes but not water available for campers. There is no water in any of the campsites and you need to take your rubbish with you. There are long drop toilers and a fire pit and remember to carry your own firewood as there is no collection of firewood in the park. 

KHMOS3, one of the last remining trees in the campsites. 

The CKGR has over 20 campsite (https://www.bigfoottours.co.bw/) spread across the reserve and based at 6 pans. All campsites are unfenced and have no water and you need to take your rubbish with you and remember to bring your own firewood and enough water for drinking and washing.  

Viewing wildlife

Chasing game in the Kalahari is challenging mainly because the home ranges for the animals are massive with a very limited road network to find them. Also the parks are huge areas with very limited tourists to get information on where the game is moving so unlike other parks, come prepared to apply your wildlife skills and patience to find game in the Kalahari. 

Trees are a luxury in the Kalahari with this Leopard in Mabua making full use. 

Wild life viewing tends to be based around the waterholes which are a magnet for game. Although it is believed, that the game out here can survive with little or no water, the reality is they will all come for water where available so this is a good starting point. Often sitting at a waterhole in the Kalahari is a more rewarding than driving around like in other parks. The game also tends to be a lot more shy than other parks and will run off on approach but will be more accepting at water hole provided you have given them space to approach. 

Precious water of the Kalahari, here at Mpaya, Mabua. 

The pumped waterholes are small and thus usually only support small herds and predators as opposed to large herds of plains game. If there animals around, the waterhole will most likely be in their home range but their home rane will be huge and may only pass by the water hole every few days. 

Cheetah are hard to find but are present in the Kalahari. 

All of the three big cats call the Kalahari home and have their largest home ranges in the Kalahari. Of the smaller cats, the African Wild Cat, Black Footed Cat (the anthilltiger) and Caracal all occur in the Kalahari. We have seen the Spotted Hyena in the Kalahari but this is the Brown Hyena range. Elephants are new to the Kalahari and only appeared in the Kutse area around 2010. There have been reports of the Northern Botswana elephants making journeys as far south at Ghanzi in the old days but this thought to be summary visitors.  

Mereekat, another Kalahari special, Mabua. 

Plains game is scattered and restricted to those able to survive with minimal or no water such as Gemsbok, Hartebeest and Springbok although surprisingly both Giraffe and Kudu are common in the Kalahari. Birding is also limited in the Kalahari with the summer months offering the best birding with the arrival of the rains and summer visitors. Common residents include the Ostrich, Ant eating chat, Kalahari scrub robin, Northern Korhaan and Pale Chanting Goshawk.  

Red Hartebeest, another unusual Kalahari resident. 

Wilderness factor

The Kalahari is one of the wildest places in Africa with wild roads maintained by nature and open camp sites where game can wonder in. It is also very remote and harsh in terms of hot days and freezing nights so there aren't too many people around adding to the wilderness factor. Facilities are few with most of the Kalahari only really open to self campers who are well prepared to take on the wilderness and will remains one of the few places where once can experience the proper wilderness factor.

Home to a few horrors and they crawl around the campsite so lookout. 

Other logistics

The easiest part in the Kalahari to get in to, both in terms access and bookings, is Kutse. Prepare to bring everything and takeout everything as there are no facilities, water, firewood or bins. There is usually a water at the gate but not safe for drinking. The southern parts of Kutse, Mabua and KTFP can we be considered all weather parks accessible in the rains where the sand compacts well. However, the northern CKGR can get tricky in the summer with rains as the pans are black cotton based and get difficult to get through.   

Summer can be special in the Kalahari. 

Our impression

We found the Kalahari unique and magical offering some of the wildest experience anywhere in Africa. While the wildlife appears the same there are some unique creatures such as the Cape Fox and Brown Hyena that are unique and only visible in the Kalahari. One of the lasting impressions of the Kalahari is the large horizons, the start packed night skies and silence. 

Sunrise at Moreswe, pure magic!