Uganda - The pearl of Africa

Crossing the Equator, just up the road from QE national park

The only real point of reference we had for the Pearl of Africa was the Semliki Forest. Much like the Serengeti, Maasai Mara or the Okavango delta are hotspots to the wildlife enthusiast, the Semliki is for birders due to the sheer number of endemics this small dot on the map seems to have. If you have ever paged through any volume of the ‘Birds of East Africa’, the Semliki will most certainly catch your attention. There are other draw cards for Uganda including the primates and of course the shoebill and all this lay within a day’s drive Kigali!

Round and around green hills

The nearest border is Katuna, an easy two hour drive from Kigali. Remember to get your Uganda insurance in advance (although you can get it at the border) and they wouldn’t sell us a local SIM card in Uganda for some obscure reason. Our first mission was to get local currency from an ATM as opposed to messing around with money dealers. We gave Kabale a skip while Ntungamo had one ATM which didn’t work and finally got cash at Ishaka. The road narrows when you turn off at Ntungamo but is well sign posted and in good condition. The landscape is similar with mountains of cultivation but noticeably less hilly than Rwanda.

Mountains of cultivation

After a six hour drive including the border crossing, we arrived at Uganda Wildlife headquarters at Katunguru, which is the left turn to Ishasha and before the channel crossing. The office is an old fashioned set up with a couple of desks and will take debit or credit cards. You only pay for entrance tickets (valid for 24 hours) at this point with camping and all other fees being paid at the respective venue.

The small guys with their own battles

Katunguru, little more than a fishing village is a disappointing and featureless town although with a magical location on the river surrounded by the highlight of Ugandan wildlife, Queen Elizabeth National Park (QE). The main tarmac road dissects the park with Eastern side dominated by Lake George and the Western side dominated by Lake Edward. The only national parks campsite is to the Western side on Mweya peninsular and our destination for the night.    

Mweya public campsite

Although the drive to the Mweya peninsula is along the channel, it’s on top of a steep bank and one hardly catches more than a glimpse of the channel till you actually get to Mweya. The road is well maintained as the Mweya peninsula is home to the largest lodge in the area and the parks board staff headquarters. The parks board also runs its own restaurant and has small chalets as an accommodation option.

Happy as Hippos in mud!

Mweya is apparently one of the best places in Uganda to see a Leopard and the only person at the campsite that night was on a desperate search for leopards on his own. Recently, a child was taken by a Leopard at the Mweya staff quarters and we are assuming every leopard in sight has been shot or harassed out of the area. The campsite is probably the best location of the Peninsula with open views over the channel. There are running showers and clean toilets but no shade at all except for a boma which would be handy in the day or if it were to rain.   

Leopard - in a Candelabra

Lion in a Candelabra

The Candelabra tree appears to be the only tree around.

A noticeable feature of this part of QE is the total lack of large trees and domination of the candelabra, a rather odd cactus like tree with poisonous sap and no leaves or fruit but can grow up over 10 meters. It appears totally inhospitable to wildlife and no surprise at the lack of game in this area. There were signs of a sizable elephant population being present, presumably in the dry, but little or no sign of game this time around. Mweya has a boat house and reputably the best place in QE to check out the channel.  

Yellow billed Oxpecker

The next morning’s target was to check out opposite side, Kasenyi, where lions had been spotted and billed as the top spot for game viewing in the park. The drive from Mweya to the main road at Katunguru is a minimum 40 minutes, and the Kasenyi turn off is a another 10 minutes up the tarmac road, from where the park entrance is a further 10 minutes. It would take you over an hour to reach the game rich plains of Kasenyi from the Mweya campsite.

Nose to the ground busy

Kasenyi is a flat plain, home to the largest concentration of Uganda kob and the highest density of lions. Oddly, there is a public road running through the middle to the fishing village so you could see the odd motorbike while on a game drive. Also oddly, there are no zebra or giraffe in QE! There’s yet another odd but interesting feature, a functional salt lake at the bottom of crater. One gets no clue to its existence except in our case, a few local folks standing by the side of road waiting for a ride. There are two lodges that overlook the crater and there is a small craft shop and canteen at the view point.

The salt works look like paddy fields

The road ends at Kasenyi, a small fishing village on Lake George. We drove through the town and a short distance along the water's edge to check out the only campsite in Kasenyi which his privately owned and outside the park. It’s a spectacular location with water birds, signs of old elephant activity and great lake views but we didn’t feel safe enough to camp out alone. Not sure why this great water edge spot is not better utilized. It should at the very least have a proper campsite which would be a start. QE despite being dominated by 2 lakes and a connecting channel, there is very little ‘watery’ experiences and this seems the obvious spot but all there is is a small smelly fishing village!

Uganda Kob, by far the most common creature at QE

Lions hiding in plain sight

Thanks for the pose but watch the lion!

The Kasenyi section of the park is the most interesting in terms of game viewing and animal density. The old mating grounds is where we found a pride of lions surrounded by herds of plains game and the lions hardly moved for the next 3 days and rightly so with all this meat around. We were lucky enough to catch a leopard on a tree, and yes on a candelabra tree, in this area of the park and wondered where our fellow camper desperately searching for leopards was. There were a few Hyenas around too adding to the mix but the lack in variety of the plains game was noticeable.

Lion watch!

After spending most of the morning with the lions we headed off to check out a suitable camping spot in Katunguru. There is a campsite in town overlooking the river (Tembo Safari Lodge), however, it was close to the main road and noisy but not the worst spot.

Down the river there are a few lodge type accommodation options which look very nice but no camping except of the only place not located on the river, Engiri Game Lodge. These guys are geared for campers with a large campground spread across the gardens. There is no much shade but a peaceful operation which offers standard rooms and meals.

Engiri have a neat second story restaurant area

Camp site has cover for rain

Lots happening at meal time

By that evening it was evident that this was a very small park, made even smaller due to the current rains blocking some of the roads, with all activity centered around the old mating grounds. We would need to check this place in the dry to know if the river system was a magnet for game. However, QE has many different parts to explore and the section around Katunguru is savannah sections with the plains game.

The spectacular black headed Gonolek

Opposite the Kasenyi turn is the turn to Katwe through explosion crater, a road littered with small crater lakes. It had rained too much to undertaken the crater field road and we just wanted to check out what Katwe offered. The road is a well maintained to Katwe located on the shores of Lake Edward with signs of elephants but we saw none. The only sings of life on this road is Kabatoro, an abandoned and unhabituated village all but for Kabatoro guest inn which is open!

One of many crater lakes in the area

Katwe itself is another sleepy fishing village with salt works factory and a sprinkling of people. Lake Katwe is a functioning salt works in yet another crater lake. There are also two guest houses in this village and both looked decent from outside but no signs of tourists. Like Kasenyi, one can’t stop imagining how much this beautiful shoreline could be utilized better for tourism. Again, a plain campsite would be a great site. We entered back in QE from a Katwe end and checked out Mweya and drove back on the channel road and to our surprise, we did not see a thing!

Grey Crowned Crane

National bird and on the Uganda flag

Early the next morning we were heading to Ishasha, home to the famed tree climbing lions. The drive is 75 kms along a decent surface for about 40 kms after which it descends into a typical road disaster with huge holes and corrugations resulting in a 3 hour plus drive. The moment you turn off the main road the first thing you notice is the lack of candelabra trees. The road takes in beautiful old growth forests with huge forest trees and a welcome change from the candelabra dominated plains.

Road to Ishasha - starts well and end like most bush roads

The Ishasha section shares a border with the DRC across the Ishasha River and there is a military camp inside the park. There are two campsites at Ishasha and both are on the Ishasha river under huge trees with plenty of shade and hippos in the water. It’s probably one of the best campsites we have come across in East Africa ticking all the boxes but the presence of the military post put us off. We presumed this is due the DRC border and we were reluctant to camp but were in awe of such a gem tucked away in this corner of Uganda.

The Ishasha campsite with DRC across the river

The Ishasha game driving section is very small with one main loop and a host of smaller loops around trees which look perfect for lions but as we have found out, we never seem to have luck with tree climbing lions. They were up the trees the day we arrived according to other tourists but nothing to be seen today. We did see more elephants in this section of the park which was nice but very little else. On our way out, a passing tourist had news of a lion up a tree on the main road to DRC and soon came upon a male lion up a tree. It is a curious sight but at the same time it’s a cat up a tree which is kind of obvious but not with a lion.

One of Ishasha's famous tree climbing lions

Ishasha has its own accommodation with a few lodges located outside the park and access to the town of Kihihi from where you can connect to the main highways so you don’t have to go all the way back up that terrible road but our tent was on ground in Katunguru. Life was not as flexible without the roof tent! We had to leave Ishasha in time to get back before dark and our time at the main QE attractions was done. It was certainly smaller than we expected but lots more exploring to be done, particularly in the dry season.

The Negro Finch was nesting in the Ishasha campsite

We felt that the bird sightings were not as expected, in particular we hadn’t seen any of the Uganda highlights we had in mind and concluded it was due to the savannah terrain around Katunguru and needed to get in to the surrounding hills. We decided to check out ‘Dave the Cave’ which is up the escarpment in Rubirizi about 30 kms away.  

The Kiyambura River gorge, home to QE's Chimps

On route we checked out the chimp trekking trail at Fig tree camp in the Kiyambura gorge. It’s an amazing river gorge that you have no idea exists till you actually get to it. While the surrounding plains are grasslands, the river gorge is lush with thick vegetation to the extent, you cannot see the river despite hearing it. You need to buy a 24 hour QE pass plus chimp trekking fees with tours starting at about 8.30 am daily. Tourists coming out were full of praise and spoke of chimp sightings and coming across a bull elephant and leopard spoor in the gorge.

The spectacular Rwenzori  Mountains

We continued on up the escarpment and checked out some of the accommodation options up the escarpment. While there are plenty of lodges with awesome views and varying budgets, none offered camping. It was market day at Rubirizi and the road to Dave the Cave was one big market in full swing. The road runs in to the surrounding villages and we followed the signs to Dave the Cave.

A small crater lake and home to Dave the Cave

An owner operated establishment offering a few accommodation options but most importantly, overlooking a magical little fresh water crater lake. We picked this spot in the hope of catching a few high montane birds and the lake and it was one of very few options that offered camping. We ended up not camping as the camping is a bit awkward and not next to the car, instead we took a chalet with views over the water.

More comfortable accommodation

The owner Dave, worked at Mweya lodge and bought this place many years ago. There is a cave at the water’s edge with an underground stream and folk tales of healing powers and ancient spirits. There are also boat rides available but we gave it a miss and rather opted to bird from the comfort of our chalet. Dave claims a bird count of 90 in one morning and we had a decent outing on the birds including a couple a lifers and thought it was a cool spot.

African Pygmy Kingfisher a common sighting

Next day we were back on the road to check out the Maramagambo forest and the last option for some of the elusive high montage birds. The turn off is just past Kichwamba at a sharp right half way down. The road is to Jacana lodge but we were more interested in the QE campsite which is in the forest. Soon after we started, we had our first wish list sighting, the black bee-eater. As the name suggests, unlike the usually colorful bee-eaters, this one is black with a sensational red throat patch and blue bottom and an endemic to these parts.

The quiet lush Maramagambo camp site

Jacana Lake

Bird walk

This is not a national park but a forest reserve and hence plenty of cultivation up the slopes until we you enter the Maramagambo forest, another spectacular patch of old growth forest with beautiful old trees. At the gate, you need to pay QE park fees and camp fees. There is a toilet which flushes but no showers so come prepared. The campsite is huge and full of beautiful old trees and no one in sight. Strangely there is a lovely lake just meters from the campsite which should have been included in the campsite.

Black and Whites are full time at the campsite

We had signed up a birding walk the next morning and spent the rest of the day checking out the lodge which has an awesome view of yet another lake and hanging around campsite which seemed like the most open spot to catch a few birds in this thick forest.

There were a permanent resident troop of black and white colobus monkeys and baboons around the camp but the star of the show was a pair of narina trogons. Although not a lifer for us -  after all we had seen one while walking in Kigali - these are always great birds to see. A closer look at what looked like a broad billed roller turned out another on the wishlist, the blue throated roller, also an endemic to these parts.

Blue Throated Roller

The next morning, we were off on the bird walk with a man with a machine gun, the local ranger. We first checked out the lake next to the campsite but soon realized, we would be hard pressed to spot anything in these huge tall trees. Next we checked out the far side of lake that Jacana lodge is on before heading deeper into the Maramagambo forest. The forest must look like a blanket of leaves from above as the sun only breaks though in rare streams of sunlight. Rather unexpectedly a shining blue kingfisher was spotted, another on the wishlist and endemic to these parts.

The brilliant Narina Trogon, another campsite special

Then we walked past some old elephant dung which was unexpected as the guide never told us about elephants. Nothing we read referred to elephants in this part nor the hippo spoor we saw next! This was not part of the deal as we consciously don’t walk in the bush where there are wild animals.

At first it was old dung but soon there was very fresh dung and lots of it and the unmistakable signs in the grass of an elephant moving around no too long ago. What’s more were nearly at the end of the walk and if there were elephants, it would require long detour but thankfully we emerged at the bottom of the campsite with no elephant or hippo sightings.

Another campsite special

The Maramagambo forest had delivered big time on the endemic sightings. We didn’t have much of a count but lots of lifers and a few off the wish list. After brunch, we were off before the 24 hour pass expired towards Fort Portal. Stopped at the marker for crossing the equator and also stopped to check out the ice shelves on the Ruwenzori Mountains.

The road now was a disaster of potholes and was taking forever to reach Kasese. More cash withdrawn and found our way to the Ruwenzori supermarket for whatever we could grab. We were out of ice so it was a case of managing with dry stuff, tins and of course the abundant fresh produce available on the side of the road.

The Rwenzori mountains in cloud with an ice shelf

Apparently the hire cars in Uganda only let you fill up at Shell so after finding ourselves a Shell, we arrived at Kluge’s Farm in the afternoon in time for lunch. We were now in to all sorts of salads with stuff we were picking up along the way mixed with tins of tuna and chickpeas and tinned pineapple finished off with bananas of which there are plenty in this part of the world.

Uganda goes bananas!

After looking around, we signed up for a bird walk at Kluge’s Farm who has a resident bird guide and their own private patch of old growth forest conveniently located next to a swamp. I also found out that the ants here are not be messed around with! Firstly, they have needle like bite but you cannot just dust or rub them off. They actually latch on and lock in, you have to basically pull them apart as they will not let go no matter what - beware the fire ants...

Kluge's farm is an excellent facility with lots of options

This is a working farm that has been beautifully maintained over a long period of time. There are a number of different accommodation choices including a grassed campground with hot water showers and flushing toilets. They also have a restaurant which looks well run and they had the daily entertainment package of dancers and beating drums which we usually avoid but others find interesting.

A Snowy-headed robin-chat nest

Next morning, the guide was there on time at 7 as planned and we were off with the first sighting, another lifer, the red-bellied paradise flycatcher. We were surprised at the size of the patch of old growth and how it has survived with cultivation all around. The guide was excellent and keen and we probably picked up 10 lifers on that work. The most excitement was around trying to flush out the Papyrus Gonolek which is said to occur in the swamp. The walkis nothing strenuous and a hidden gem to be able to experience a good bird walk in old growth forest surrounded by farmland.

Double Toothed, one of many spectacular barbets in Uganda. 

Spot Flanked Barbet

Next stop was Fort Portal (or Port Fortal?) and despite this being the crossing point to Semliki we decided to give it a skip till we get more details on safety and how exactly this place works. Our main concern is its proximity to the DRC border and never ending issues that could potentially spill over. All inquiries were that it’s totally safe but we decided to be cautious and gather more intel for next time.

Easter festivities on the road

Our destination was Kibale National Park and when arriving from Kasese, you need to take the right before the bridge near the mosque. We were told exactly this but somehow took the turn after the bridge and had to turn back. The drive to Kibale National Park is a pleasant mountainous route on an excellent tarmac road with very little traffic.

Diedreck's Cuckoo

Kittlitz Plover

(?) Red Bishop 

The Primates lodge has an advertised camp site and we were informed by the reception to check out the campsite. The campsite is carved out of the forest and would be perfect for a spot of birding and had running water and a long drop. When we went back to check in, the reception informed us that the campsite is closed. Not sure why by rather used to getting the cold shoulder as campers so we decided to check out Bigodi for options.

Red and Whites were resident at the Kibale Forest Lodge

Chimp’s nest had camping but was closed for renovations. Not the easiest place to find as the signposts have fallen over so it’s down to guesswork or in our case, getting a local Boda Boda to show us the way. Looks a great location right next to Kibale national park tree line and will need to be checked out next time.

This left only Kibale Forest Camp which was another gem despite not offering camping. The camping tents have a small stream running next to it with a Shining blue kingfisher around. There were also a pair of Black bee-Eaters and the Great Blue Turacos around the camp. They also have a small forest walk which is where we first spotted the turacos.

The reason we were here was to check out the Bigodi Swamp. It’s a walking tour so we were out early the next morning to get the walk done in the coolers part of the day. Bigodi Swamp is a community operated project run by knowledgeable bird guides. You will need to wade through shallow water and require wellingtons which will be provided by the guide.

The walk circles the huge swamp and is home to the flufftails and gonoleks and lots more. The farmlands and surrounding forests are also full of birds and our guide was very knowledgeable and we must have marked off at least a dozen lifers.

The Bigodi Swamp

After the walk we were not sure what to do thought we would head to Mbarara and then Lake Mburo National Park. However, given we had to back track to Lake Mburo, we decided to head towards the Rwanda border. After checking out an obscure guest house called Nyore hillside retreat which had a campsite but was already occupied and so a little cramped, we kept heading towards Rwanda to check out Lake Bunyonyi.

Overland Resort on Lake Bunyonyi was one of two places offering camping with the second place looking deserted. This resort is right on the lake and has a variety of accommodation options including a campsite and good meals. Given it was the Easter long weekend, not surprisingly the place was packed so we took a one of their permanent tents and it was a wise move as it absolutely bucketed down with rain that evening and would have not been a pleasant camping experience.

Drive to Kisoro

Since we had the whole day to get back to Kigali, the next morning we headed towards Kisoro to check out this area. The drive is the most spectacular we have done in this part of the world with mountain passes and great views, the highlight being the 3 volcanoes in Uganda close to the border with Rwanda and DRC who have their own volcanos. We had lunch at the Travellers Rest which is a well-run old fashioned rest house with a long documented history.

Volcanoes dominate the skyline.

The border crossing is straight forward but remember to hand in your Uganda gate pass and obtain a police receipt to enable exiting Uganda. The road immediately after the border on route to Musanze in Rwanda was surprisingly poor by Rwandese standards but it’s still a leisurely drive down the mountain and Kigali is a further two hours.

Uganda was a good find and the birding was awesome and we marked off 40 lifers which was sensational but also expected as there are a lot of rift valley endemics in Uganda and this part of Western Uganda is great for birding due to the mountain terrain. Uganda also offered a few accommodation options and most importantly a few campsites enabling self-camping and birding options and we will back in the dry to check out QE and try to get further north to check out what else is on offer, especially the reason we first knew about Ugandan birding - Semliki.