Malawi - the warm heart of Africa

The Lake of Stars

Throughout our travels in Southern and East Africa, Malawi had never been on our radar. What little we knew about the country was about it being the home of Lake Malawi (known as the Lake of Stars). 

South Luangwa NP, Zambia - Day 7

Elephant family at the hide 

We didn’t need to get up at 5am to do a game drive, but habits die hard and we were up not long after that to catch the sunrise.  Our plan was only to get across the border, not all the way home to Blantyre so were weren’t in a hurry to get going.

South Luangwa NP, Zambia - Day 6

The magnificent African crowned eagle

Our last day in South Luangwa and as usual we were up and at the gate just before 6am.  Nothing of significance wandered into our path and soon we were headed to the Mfuwe lodge area where surprise, surprise the lions hadn’t moved more than 20 meters from where we’d seen those full lionesses the previous evening.  Except that the males and the lionesses that we’d seen the previous day had joined up with the 2 females and now the pride was 8 strong.

South Luangwa NP, Zambia - Day 5

Male lions watched on by the zebras

A good day yesterday, so could today live up to it? There was no question about where we were heading to first – Wamilombe!  So it was through the gate past the same self-drive car that was shooting the sunrise again and straight to the plain.

South Luangwa NP, Zambia - Day 4

Highlight of the trip!

Every evening we sit under the stars with a glass of wine, listen to the sounds of the bush and decide for the route for the next morning.  And as usual, Wamilombe was at the top of our list.  It’s just too difficult to let it go knowing that if we see something first thing in the morning it would be special. 

South Luangwa NP, Zambia - Day 3

Southern carmine bee-eaters on the Luangwa river bank

We were up early as usual and off to the park first thing, passing a self-drive car that was on the bridge taking photos of the sunrise.  We went through the riverside drive just to see if we could find the little leopard again, but no sign of him so we headed off to our favourite area – Wamilombe. 

South Luangwa NP, Zambia - Day 2

Male lion at Twin Baobabs

Wamilombe is an area in South Luangwa that is easily accessible from the gate, only about 15 minutes drive.  The beauty of the place is that it’s an open plain and perfect for photographing early morning if there is anything special on the plain.  Although we haven’t had great luck (having said that we’ve seen leopard and wild dog there on a number of occasions during previous trips) it is an area that is hard to look past first thing in the morning, and our hope is always that we will find a leopard on the plain in morning light.

South Luangwa NP, Zambia - Day 1

Luangwa leopard

We woke to the sound of something big crossing the Luangwa River – it could only be elephants.  And sure enough, a small herd of elephants had just crossed the river and were on the plain in front of the camp.  We were up and had the roof tent packed pretty quickly as we wanted to get to the gate as soon as possible to do the paperwork for park entry.  

South Luangwa NP, Zambia - September 2022

The Luangwa river at sunset

Five months after our last trip to South Luangwa and we were back at it again.  In contrast to our unexpected trip in April (a story for another time) this would be in the dry.  We'd actually have preferred to do it about a month later when the dry season was at its peak, but sometimes work gets in the way and we decided to do it in September while we could get away and then hope we could cram another trip in before the seasonal rains come.

Nyika NP, Malawi - "where the water comes from"

Roan in Nyika NP

Nyika is not a name that immediately conjures up any distinct images – not like vast open spaces when mentioning the Serengeti or the beautiful palm dotted landscapes when thinking of the Okavango Delta.  In fact, I didn’t know anything about the national park nestled in the middle of Malawi, except that it had roan antelope. And that was our primary reason for finally visiting this little-known reserve.  But it really delivers so much more and is well worth a visit for hardened safari goers that are looking for something a bit different.