Camping

Chobe River front - Chobe NP. Botswana

Camp sites in Southern Africa and East Africa are like chalk and cheese. From the wonderful Kalahari camp sites that are remote, secluded and wild to the Woodstock like crowded communal camp sites of the Serengeti, the camp sites of Africa differ vastly. In a nutshell Southern Africa understands the idea of self campers while East Africa has little or no idea. 

Ideal camp site with a view - KH 24, Moreswe, Khutse GR Botswana

When you get to a campsite you are looking for a few key variables. Toilets and position. You either want an available functioning toilet which makes things a lot easier or the privacy to make your own plans for toiletry needs. In position you are looking for a ‘tent with a view’ with safety from wild animals, especially at night.

Savute campsite, Chobe NP, Botswana - the game walks through.

The way we set up the camp is all about safety after dark. Privacy is next as there is nothing better than enjoying a peaceful night in the bush. This is largely out of your hands and depends on culture of the camp site. 

The Seronera campsite in the Serengeti for example is a tent city with tents on top of each other, awfully crowded, awfully noisy and anything but a wild experience.  The Kalahari camp sites for example are solitary with no facilities and totally wild and you are almost always guaranteed to be camping alone. The pleasures and risks are very different in these two scenarios.
 

Position yourself with natural barriers - Nxai Pan NP, Botswana

The key to a camp site in terms of safety is to box yourself in (safety zone) with obstacles to ensure wild animals don’t have a clear path to where your hanging around. The plan should be to place the car as one border with the fire as the other border, allowing for a quick retreat to the car if needed.   

If there is a bush around or even the camping table, can cover a 3^rd side. When using trees and bushes, inspect the surrounds to be sure it’s not a favorite hangout for wild animals. 

Elephants in particular will insist on getting close to favorite hangouts specially if it’s a fruiting tree.  If it’s a baboons roost stay well clear as they will almost certainly urinate on you. The only way to know a baboon roost is at dusk when they climb up to sleep. 

3rd Bridge, Moremi GR, only facility in 2007 were trees!

When in camp at night always stay vigilant, you will be amazed how wild animals can get to within a few feet of you without being noticed. Arrange chairs so that you are able to check back the other person and use flash light to check the surrounds regularly. You must also have a club (axe handle works well) and pepper spray within reach for emergencies.   

Dik Dik campsit, Serengeti NP, ask for it by name to get away from the crowds

Try not to leave for safety zone after dark. Actually at night the main objective should be to get in to bed as soon as possible. This will not be possible unless you have planned things ahead and know what you are doing. Get your cooking done and food out of the way as quickly as possible so as to not attract animals (close food in the car if you are having a drink or just enjoying the stars). 

Ruaha NP, Tanzania - best campsite in Tanzania.

Lighting

A reliable and sufficient lighting system is critical for bush camping. This means different things to different people but we carry a gas lamp which fits on to a gas bottle. This is both durable and gas bottles last for a long time. 

However, ensure you have plenty of spare wicks, jets, rubber seals and a chimney as these do need to be replaced. Unless you check your gear before you leave (a must), this will only be discovered on your first night at camp. It’s important to carry an extension pole to ensure the light is at an elevated level rather than at ground level.

Gas bottle, pole & lamp - Mkomazi NP, Tanzania

While the gas lamp is the primary lighting source (yes one is fine) it’s important to have at least two back up sources. Our first fall back is chargeable led light lamp and secondly tube light stick that runs off the cigarette lighter (make sure not to drain the battery with this). 

We also carry tow personal torches, one of which is a powerful Mag light that doubles as spot light. Lighting alone is at most times sufficient for wild animals not to get too close to the camp site.     

Ihaha campsite, Chobe NP, Botswana. View doesn't get better.